Want to save thousands and construct a sturdy, long-lasting fence? Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to build a DIY garden fence and gate from scratch, including staining tips to ensure it lasts for years.
Prepare to Build Your DIY Fence
The first thing to do is string a line to indicate where the fence will be placed. The line represents where to place the edge of the posts. Use a property survey to determine proper placement, especially if there is a neighbor.
Mark where the holes will be dug.
As a rule of thumb, make the diameter of the hole three times the size of the post. For 4×4 posts, the holes will be 12 inches in diameter. The front corner post will be a 4×6 for added strength, and that hole will be 18 inches in diameter.
Space the holes 90 inches apart if possible, so an 8-foot section of lumber could fit with no issue.
Marking and Digging Post Holes
Use a post hole digger and a tamper to compact the bottom of the hole after digging. Place dirt on a tarp and move it to an area of the yard that needs to be filled. It’s very important to call 811 or go to call811.com. Do not start digging and hit a gas line, electrical line, or worse.
They are quick to respond, and it’s free. They will mark all the utility lines, and all that needs to be done is mark the holes with white paint to show them where to dig. After they come out and mark everything, adjust the holes if necessary, and then start digging.
It is possible to rent an auger to dig the holes. Depending on the type of soil, it could be a lot easier than digging by hand. If an auger is used, you would have to constantly clean it because clay soil sticks. A powered auger can also be very powerful, and it could hurt you if you’re not careful or strong enough to handle it.
To determine the depth, paint a white stripe at 2 feet deep on the post hole digger. Use a wet vacuum to remove any water from the holes.
The hole for the 4×6 post should be 18 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep. If using a line to mark where you want the edge of your post to be, do not mark the center of your hole using the string line. Mark the center of the hole by subtracting half the width of your post.
Concrete and Post Installation
Use the high-strength Quikrete instead of the rapid set due to the price. Wear a mask when using the concrete. Compact the hole with a steel tamper. Pour half a bag of concrete on the bottom of the hole to act as an adjustable surface to get the pulse nice and level.
Pour in another bag and do the same thing. Get a shovel or a long wooden pole to mix the concrete as best as possible. It doesn’t have to be perfect. The water will migrate deep into the concrete along with the moisture from the ground, and it’ll harden up with no issue.
Get a pulse level to avoid using a standard level. Simply wrap it around and adjust the post if necessary. The post should lean up against the string line without pushing it forward. Repeat the concrete and water mixture and keep mixing. For this deep of a hole, use nine bags of concrete.
For all the other posts, use three and a half. Keep checking to see if they’re still level. Once close to the top, switch from a pole to a small shovel and a trowel for the final layer. Mix some concrete in the wheelbarrow and shovel it on top.
The point of this final layer is to build it up and slope it away from the post. That way, water will flow away and not cause the post to rot, which is the number one cause of fences failing. Let that set up overnight and start on the rest of the post the next day.
The rest of the posts will be 8-foot long 4x4s. There should be exactly 6 feet of post sticking out since the hole was 2 feet deep. Measure 6 feet on the first post and place a mark along with a screw on the other end. Place a screw and tie a string to it.
Pull both strings opposite to each other, getting all the slack out. Pull the string that is not connected to anything and pull it towards the screw. It will collapse on itself and it won’t go anywhere. The string will act as a guide to make sure all the posts are at the same height.
If you’re working by yourself or want to keep a post level, cut a 2×4, pre-drill a hole, and screw it into your post. It will help keep your post from moving around. Repeat the process with the holes, add some concrete on the bottom, and if the post comes up a little short to your string, simply add some more concrete. Adjust and level the post.
Once at the top, make some concrete in a bucket or a wheelbarrow, add some water, and mix it up. Hand shovel it on top. Use a trowel dipped in water to help smooth out the concrete.
Assembling the Fence Structure
Installing Middle Rails
Install the middle rail first, since it is easier to work on and it will keep the post space evenly. When determining where to place the middle rail, do not measure from the top to the bottom of a naked post. The measurement should include the top rail with a scrap 2×4 on the top and also include the footer along with a spacer if you decide to use one.
The measurement will come to 64 inches, and half of that is 32. Mark a line. The middle rail will be a 2×4, which is 3 1/2 inches wide. Half of that is an inch and 3/4. Mark a line to show where to place the top of the 2×4. Get the 2×4 and adjust it to the line. Grab a clamp to act as an extra hand. Place a level on top and adjust the the other side.
Mark a line to show how far you want your 2×4 to be. If using a thicker piece of lumber like a 4×6, which is 5 1/2 inches wide, and all other posts are 4x4s, which are 3 1/2 inches, move the 2×4 2 inches in to keep everything straight.
Mark the 2×4 where it will be cut. Once the wood is cut, the wood that has not been chemically treated is exposed. Use a liquid to keep it from rotting and being affected by insects. Use safety glasses, gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area. Brush it on and let it soak in.
Use 4-inch deck screws for most of this project. Get a scrap 2×4 to mark a line, place two screws on that line, and use the same for the other side. This helps to keep the wood from moving around when you attach it. Attach a clamp and mark a line 1 and a 1/4 inches from the edge.
Extend the line towards the front. This is the proper distance to toenail a screw. After you determine the rail is level, grab your drill and start off straight. Once it bites, angle the drill at 45 degrees and go all the way through. Screw in the screws but not all the way just yet. This keeps the other side from pulling away too far from the post. Remove the two screws from the back and toenail one screw.
You may need to press the screw in a bit to get the right angle, so it won’t pop out the front of your post. Screw in the rest of the screws and now tighten all of them up. When starting the next one, simply mark a straight line using the previous rail since we know that was level. Keep working your way down on the rest of the fence.
At the end of the fence, you may have to raise these two rails since this part of the yard slopes upward. This means the footer was higher compared to the others. Remember, you have to measure from the top rail to the top of the bottom footer.
Adding Footers and Bottom Rail
Work on the footers to place the pickets on and make the fence about 6 inches taller. Place a 1/2-inch spacer so the footer would not rest directly on the concrete. Tie a string line and do the same for the other side. Place a scrap 2×4 to extend the line out to place footers in between without an issue.
Start with the front of the fence and use 2×6 boards. Have them clamped up along with 1/2-inch spacers, and everything is level. Do not recess this part of the board in a little bit. If you leave it in the way it is, it will look a little weird and extend outward, so unscrew it and bring it in half an inch.
When installing the footers, place a 2×6 down on top of your spacers. Adjust the board until it’s level and clamp it down. Mark the middle of the 4×4 and transfer that line to the footer. Cut your board to size and seal it up. Place it back down, and when it’s level, pre-drill and screw it in. Repeat the process all the way down.
If the concrete mounds are too high, the footers will not lay flush. Mark a curved line and use a jigsaw to cut out the curve. Place the board down and screw it in.
For the part where the ground slopes upward, clamp a level 2×6 and measure one end and the other. Subtract the 1/2 inch clearance from the bottom. Measure the length and cut it. Use a 2×2 for this footer. Mark a 5 1/2 inch measurement on one side and 10 and 1/2 inches on the other. Grab a straight edge or a leftover piece of wood and connect the dots.
Take your time and cut it. Place it down for a test fit. Mark the curves, cut them out, and if you have a slope in your yard, this is definitely an option. If a part of the yard slopes up a bit, dig out a shallow trench so the 2×6 could fit a little better.
For the last footer, an old tree stump may have to be chopped up to get it to fit just right. After that, screw in pieces of wood to attach the footer and bottom rail to the existing fence. Place the board down, mark it, cut it, and seal it. Place the board back down, and use a 1/2 inch spacer and adjust the board if necessary. Pre-drill some holes and toenail the screws on both sides.
Installing the Top Rail
Once all of them are in, go ahead and tighten all the screws up. Toenail a screw on the back of both sides and remove your spacers. Install the top rail, which is going to rest on top of each post. Place the top of the crown facing up to resist sagging. Place the 2×4 on top and eyeball the middle of the 4×4. Mark it, cut it, and seal it. Pre-drill two holes at an angle and screw in two 4-inch screws on each side.
Adding Fence Pickets
Install the pickets. Since the fence has different heights of footers, start with the lowest one. Place the picket on top and make sure it’s level. If using screws, pre-drill a hole so you won’t crack the pickets. Screws make the fence stronger and you won’t have to worry about nails backing out in the future.
The next footer is slightly higher, and you want the top of the pickets to be even. Flip the picket upside down and draw a line matching the top of the previous picket. Cut that part off and seal it up.
When coming across the next footer with a small issue, instead of cutting a thin piece of picket, cut out a notch. Place the picket on top of the footer and tight against the previous picket. Mark a line at the edge of the footer and trace it up with a triangle or a straight edge. Bring the picket down and strike a line using the top of the higher footer. Mark an X to show what we’re cutting out. Use a circular saw jigsaw or hand saw and cut out the notch.
Keep repeating the process. Sometimes you have to flip the boards around so they can sit tight against the previous picket. Keep pre-drilling holes and screwing screws. Whenever you’re putting your pickets up, they’ll usually have a tag attached with a staple. Pull them out so they won’t interfere with the height when you place them down.
On the last rail, cut off a piece of the last post. Place a clamp on one side as a helping hand and place your board on top. Level it out and mark a line. Cut the 4×6. Use a straight edge and strike a line on all four sides. Use a circular saw set at the deepest cutting setting and take your time and cut through.
The last picket had to be cut to fit. Place the picket you want flat against the previous one. Grab another picket and slide it flush with the post. Scribe along the edge and you have the exact measurement to fit any space. Notch the top to match the rest of the pickets. Pre-drill holes and screw in screws. Place only one screw on top and the bottom to hold them in place.
Constructing a Sturdy Gate
Building the Gate Frame
The first parts that will be cut are the top and bottom rails, which will be 2x6s. They’ll be joined together with half flap joints which are extremely strong when glued and screwed. Since the half flap joint will cross with a 2×4, grab a scrap piece, flush it up with the edge, and mark a line. Keep in mind that any 2 by Lumber is 1 and 1/2 inches wide. Half of that is 3/4 of an inch. Set your blade at 3/4 of an inch and place it right on the line.
After that, make multiple cuts about a 1/4 inch apart. Next, grab a hammer and start knocking out the slices of wood. Get a sharp chisel and cut out the remaining pieces. Smooth out the bottom of the half lap joint the best you can. As long as your blade is sharp, it will cut out the small bumps of wood left over with no problem.
After you finish, measure out the length of the side rail, which will be 42 and 1/2 inches long. Repeat the same process on the other side to make the half flap joint. The next parts will be the side rails, which are 2x4s. Get a scrap piece of 2×6, place it flush on the edge, and strike a line. Repeat the process and making the other half of the half flap joint.
With these type of joints, we’ll be gluing them and bolting them together with carriage bolts. This type of joint allows for more surface area for the glue to adhere and keeps the Lumber’s thickness uniform for your project. The length of the side rails will be 64 inches.
If you happen to have a table saw, you can avoid the chisel work and get the wood real smooth and flat. Use a combination square or any type of gauge set at 3/4 of an inch and adjust the blade of your table saw. Simply move the wood over the blade back and forth. Keep your piece as level as possible, so you don’t tip the wood down and cut off more than you wanted.
Gather all your boards and fit them roughly together. It does help to have a large flat surface, but feel free to use the ground if it’s flat enough. Get the gate Square. Use a triangle combination square, a framer Square, or just two pieces of wood joined together. After it’s Square, clamp it down so it won’t move. If a corner is out of square, just give it a nudge until the triangle fits snugly in the corner.
Once you got everything squared up, it’s time to glue it up. Use a waterproof wood glue. Lift up a board being careful not to bump anything out of alignment. Pour the glue all over and saturate it good. Place your board on top and check for square. Clamp Each corner down so both sides of the joint can adhere to each other. Check to see if your project is square. Grab a tape measure and measure from one corner to the other.
While the glue is setting, place one screw in each corner to ensure the connection was strong. Pre-drill a hole and Screwed In A 1 and 1/2 inch screw. More glue was able to squeeze out that lets you know that a particular area was not pressed together as much as it should be. Let the gate sit overnight so it can cure.
Adding Diagonal Braces
Cut out the middle brace. This diagonal brace will be the most important part to keep your gate from sagging. If your hinges are on this side, the diagonal piece must be installed where the high point is facing opposite of the hinges. If your hinges were on this side and the diagonal piece was kept in the same direction, the gate would start to Sag and get worse each day.
When Gravity comes into play along with the weight of your pickets, it can withstand compression forces without a problem. If the brace is facing the wrong way now, the gate is under tension and barely has any strength to hold itself up.
Eyeball the 2×4 and once you get it in place, Mark your lines. Cut The Notches out and seal the exposed Cuts. Test fit your piece. Pre-drill some holes at an angle and toenail 4-inch screws on both sides. Use 3/8 inch galvanized carriage bolts that are 3 inches long with a washer. Drill 3/8 inch holes in each Corner. Use a forcer bit to create a recess so the bolt can sit below the wood. Place the bolt in and you may have to hammer it in a bit. Place the washer down and hand tighten the bolt.
Hanging the Gate and Installing the Latch
To tighten them, use a ratchet with a 9/16 deep socket or a wrench of the same size. Tighten it down until you hear that slight crushing sound of the wood. The hinge should fit over the bolt with no issue. Use a more heavy-duty hinge. To attach the hinch to the gate, use 2-in lag screws. Before doing that, install the first couple of pickets to tell you where to place the picket. The top of it will be at the same level as the pickets on the fence.
To come up with that measurement, take into account the height of your fence and the clearance you want from the ground to the bottom of your gate. Align your hinge in the center of the top rail. Use the punch to mark your holes where you’ll pre-drill. Utilize a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screw. Use an impact drill to start the screw and then use a ratchet to fine-tune the bolt to the desired position. The footer will be one of the fence pickets.
With this gate, there should be 4 in of clearance from the bottom to leave enough clearance for the gate to clear. Level it out so you can rest the gate on the wood, and the gate will be at the correct height. Line up your hinge and use a punch to mark your first hole. Pre-drill it. Use a 5/16 leg screw that are 2 in long with stainless steel washers. Plum the gate to get it level and screw in one screw so the gate can hang freely.
Pre-drill the rest of the holes on your hinges and screw in your lag screws. Attach a piece of 2×4 to the house to install the catch for the gate latch system. Mark two lines where you want to drill and you want to drill into the brick, not the mortar. Use quarin concrete screws that are three and 1/4 in Long. Drill through the wood just enough to create a mark on the brick. Switch out to a masonry bit and use a drill with a hammer setting.
Plum up the post and repeat the process. There is enough clearance when closing the gate, but the house doesn’t seem to be Plum, so it angles out a bit. To install the latch, measure 4 ft from the ground. Mark the top and bottom and also Mark your holes. Pre-drill and screw in your L screws from the gate kit. Give them a quarter turn once they’re tight.
To install the actual latch that will keep our gate closed and locked, install a picket. Get your latch and slide it into the catch. Level It Out by eye and Mark a hole. Add a couple of pieces of wood to act as structure to screw in the latch and the pickets. Grab a scrap piece of 2×4, level it out, and Mark out the angle that you need. Cut it out and pre-drill a few holes and screw them in.
Add the final pickets. Measure the width of the top and the bottom, connect the dots, and cut it. Cut another piece of 2×4 to screw in the pickets in on the bottom. Drill out a 3/8 inch hole, pop in your Carriage bolt, and do the same for the other side. Use a forcer bit to make a recess hole. Install the handle.
Staining and Finishing Your Fence
Preparing the Fence for Staining
Wash off any dirt or mud that has gotten on the fence so the stain can penetrate the wood. Use a pressure washer or a water hose along with a brush. You want the wood dry. Sprinkle some water on the wood, and if the wood absorbs it, then it’s dry enough. If it beads up, then the wood is still wet. If you’re pressure washing on a sunny day, it should only take about 30 minutes to an hour for the wood to be dry again.
Applying the Stain
To stain the fence, you can use a roller, a brush, or even a paint sprayer, but what is preferred is an electric airless sprayer. Adjust the spray setting. This is the dial where you can adjust how much stain or paint you want flying out of this machine. The main nozzle can be adjusted in any direction. The stain that is going to be used is by ready seal, and it’s a natural cedar color. It’s basically foolproof, and it’ll leave no runs or streaks, and you won’t notice any overlap marks. Most importantly, it’s water resistant and blocks UV rays.
Be careful with overspray. Use a plastic barrier that has tape on it to cover windows and anything that may get stain on it. Stretch out the width that you need, and it also has a built-in cutter. Shake the bucket of stain. Pull up the top to reveal the spout and pour it into your container. Screw on the container nice and tight. Flip the priming lever down and pull the trigger for 10 seconds to prime the pp with stain. Flip the prime lever back up.
Protect yourself by wearing safety glasses and a mask. Have your sprayer about 6 to 8 inches away. Have a nice steady Pace, not too fast and not too slow. This will be the first code of two. Staining the fence reduces the glare and is more comfortable for the eyes. Staining also stops potential rot which will slowly eat away at your fence and cause it to fail. It also keeps bugs from using your fence as food and blocks the Sun’s UV rays.
Now that we have the first coat on, if you like this shade of the stain, feel free to leave it alone. If you want it a bit darker, let it dry for 1 hour and repeat the process. It is the exact same process that was done for the first coat. Pour the leftover stain you have back in your bucket. Since our stain is oil-based, use some mineral spirits and pour some into the Container. Place the sprayer back on and prime it up. Flip your Prime lever up and use this knob to switch back and forth from flush to spray to get all the leftover stain out of the pump. Remove the plastic container and pour the fluid into a glass jar.
Let it sit, and all the stain will fall to the bottom. That way, you can reuse the clear mineral Spears that flow to the top. Wipe the inside of the container. Flush the pump with a blue armor pump fluid. You can see the leftover stain come out of the sprayer. Squeeze the bottle until clear blue fluid comes out. Place the siphon tube back on, and your sprayer will be corrosion free until the next time you decide to use it.